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September brings with it a deluge of new power potions promising to turn back the clock.
These supposed miracle products for midlife women can cost a fortune: most three figures, some not giving much change from £500.
With many products launching in one great glut, I’ve been unable to give any of them more than a few days testing. Given that skin produces new cells that move to the surface and replace the old, dead cells every 28-ish day period, this is not enough to judge their worth.
So I’m left with the ‘science’. I put this in inverted commas because so much of the material is partial, minute in scale (in the case of tests and trials) and paid for (in terms of approving dermatologist quotes).
I may have been writing about these things for more than 25 years, however, my only science qualification is an O-Level in biology from 1987.
So I went to a dermatologist – a brilliant, hard-working, NHS skin specialist with a doctorate, not in the pay of any big brand.
She asked to remain anonymous, because many of her NHS colleagues are so sceptical about the claims of commercial options, they don’t like being associated with them in any way.
I asked for her judgment. What did she agree with, what was fiction and what might she recommend herself?
‘The rule of thumb is that anything massively effective has to be prescribed – and you could pay a private dermatologist to prescribe you things for the price of some of these.’
So what would my derm source seek out? ‘Certain ingredients have been proven to have results: namely retinol, vitamin C, azelaic acid and niacinamide. Most are carried in a vehicle such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid. We would use azelaic acid and sunscreen for hyperpigmentation so I like the sound of the Neoretin routine.’
Me too, as Neoretin is part of Cantabria Labs, who make my beloved Heliocare 360° Pigment Solution Fluid SPF50+ (£32.99, cantabrialabs.co.uk), with its silky, sensitivity suitable, glowingly-tinted formula.
The range offers two further products, suggesting all three be used together. The NeoRetin Pigment Neutraliser Serum (£45, facethefuture.co.uk) combats age spots with minimal irritation, even for those typically sensitive to retinol. Its Pigment Corrector Peel Pads (£25 for six, cantabrialabs.co.uk) offer a weekly overnight exfoliation designed to enhance fading.
I would be doing you a disservice if I didn’t mention Skin Rocks The Hyperpigmentation Serum (£85, skinrocks.com) in this context. It’s Caroline Hirons’s new sell-out sensation, for which women are going wild. With niacinamide, vitamin C, and other antioxidants, it’s designed to diminish multiple types of pigmentation, from post-breakout scars to melasma, in addition to red marks.
Reviewers report seeing results from first use, becoming euphoric after three weeks.
My dermatologist ally was similarly admiring of Beauty Pie’s new Youthbomb Extreme Retinal Triple Renewal Serum (£49 for members, £75 for non-members, beautypie.com).
The company’s most potent damage-combatting solution to date, it promises firmness and improved texture in a couple of weeks with minimal redness and flaking.
Again, Beauty Pie is a business that I love and trust.
I’m not giving up on the industry’s wilder promises. There are some cult creams that may not convince a skin doctor on paper, but produce spectacular skin.
I’d include that most mythologised unguent, Crème de La Mer (from £85 for 15ml, spacenk.com), in this category. Professionals may scoff at its ‘miracle broth’ claims. However, the original never fails to give me a plumply plush complexion, just as it soothed my late (doctor) father’s ancient war wounds.
I will continue to test these super serums. If any give amazing results, I will immediately tip you the wink. Meanwhile, I want you to choose wisely, knowing which had medical blessing.
Safe gel nails
European officials banned TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), found in some gel polishes over fears it could be toxic. For now, it remains on sale here in the UK. But here are our top TPO-free picks…
TPO-free since 2024, it is available in 95 shades – or layer to create your own.
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Also omits 14 other possibly controversial ingredients.
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TPO-free from its launch in 1996, it requires the brand’s own LED lamp to set it.
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These Mylee gel lacquers last up to three weeks.
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A gel-mimicking varnish. Apply a few coats, then add a top coat. No UV lamp needed.
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Race you to it!
My textured hair tester was despairing over her untameable, post-holiday locks, until I told her about Amika Frizz-me-not Hydrating Anti-frizz Treatment, part of the brand’s new Forget Frizz range. Hairdryer heat-activated molecules create a smooth coating, while adding softness and shine. The result? Transformed tresses.
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Cosmetic craving
Texture is one of the most underrated elements when it comes to make-up. It’s particularly obvious when it comes to mouths, where it can be the difference between an ageingly creamy ‘granny’ lip and an ageless barely-there balm.
The latest finish comes via Paris: VIOLETTE_FR’s Plume Lip – a simple, ultra-chic cream gel that diffuses to a long-wear, ultra-blurred, second-skin stain. The five shades – which according to founder Violette Serrat, are ‘bold and tender at once’ – have a warm, brownish aspect.
For more cool-toned women, NYX’s Smushy Matte Lip Balm (£7.99, superdrug.com) may prove more flattering.
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